Andermatt, Switzerland to Rotterdam nearly always following the Rhine

GETTING THERE - Easyjet, Luton to Zurich, Midweek flights leaves at 11.30 arrives Zurich 16.00. Train from airport to Zurich HB (10 minute journey). Three trains to Andermatt. Arrived at 20.22.

DO NOT UNPACK YOUR BIKES! Plenty of time and space at Andermatt station to do this. On the trains it is classed as personal luggage if it’s bagged up. The last train to catch is from Goschenen to Andermatt (a 10 min journey) do not be tempted after a long days travelling to unpack your bikes and ride to Andermatt - the road is busy, bendy and dangerous.

THE ROUTE
In Switzerland the EV15 follows Swiss National Bike Route no. 2. Andermatt, Disentis, Chur, Rorschach, Schaffhausen, Zurzach, Basel.
France: Huningue, Ottmarsheim, Neuf-Brisach, Marckolsheim, Erstein, Eschau, Strasbourg, La Wantzenau, Gambsheim, Drusenheim, Sessenheim, Rœschwoog, Seltz, Munchhausen, Mothern, Lauterbourg.
Germany: The EV15 follows D-Route no. 8. Karlsruhe, Speyer, Ludwigshafen, Mannheim, Worms, Oppenheim, Mainz, Wiesbaden, Bingen, Rüdesheim, Boppard, Koblenz, Andernach, Bonn, Cologne, Düsseldorf, Duisburg, Xanten, Emmerich am Rhein.
The Netherlands: The EV15 follows a number of LF-routes. Millingen aan de Rijn, Arnhem, Utrecht, Rotterdam, Hoek van Holland

Day	To	kms
Wed 14	Andermatt
Thurs 15	Day at Andermatt	96
Fri 16	Chur (Hostel JBN) Train to top of Oberalp Pass	98
Sat 17	Rorshach (hotel)	89
Sun 18	Rhein Falls (Youth. Hostel)	96
Mon 19	Rheinfelden (Hostel Rosa’s)	71
Tue 20	Mulhouse (Enzo Hotel)	87
Wed 21	Sundhouse (Gite)	77
Thurs 22	Drusenenheim (Hotel) Train Karlsruher - Mainz	60
Fri 23	Mainz (Youth Hostel)	66
Sat 24	St Goar (hostel Rhine Gorge)	80
Sun 25	Ramagen (hotel)	33
Mon 26	Kleve (City Hotel) Train from Bonn to Kleve	95
Tue 27	Culomborg (Chalet) Train to Hook of Holland - Ferry to Harwich.

ACCOMMODATION - We wanted to spend two days at 'Andermatt Basecamp' (that was the name of the chalet we had for two nights). This was one of the hardest places to get to despite being able to see it from the station. We thought it was a great place to stay and sat in the sauna watching the snow come down. WARNING There are no roads to this ski chalet!

Overnight it snowed quite heavily although the roads were clear. Generally it was cold and damp so our intended walking day did not happen. We were going to go to the top of the Oberlap Pass pass and walk up to the actual spring the Rhine starts from (that’s what is says in the brochures, anyway).

We decided right from the start NOT to extend our first day cycle by walking our bikes up the Oberlapp Pass (especially since it was deep snow). So we let the train take the strain. Took local service (not the Glacier Express, bikes not allowed on that). This 15 min journey saved us several hours of uphill travel. It is also one of the great train journeys in the world.
We were the only people on this train and got off at the first stop. There was heavy snow but the roads were clear! And yes, there is a lighthouse at the top of the pass. Only there so the Swiss can say they have the tallest lighthouse in the world.

Oberlap Pass. This what it looks like on a nice day. We decided right from the start not to extend our first day cycle by walking our bikes up this lot. So we let the train take the strain. Took local service (not the Glacier Express, bikes not allowed on that). This 15 min journey saved us several hours of uphill travel. It is also one of the great train journeys in the world.

We were the only people on this train and got off at the first stop. There was heavy snow but the roads were clear! And yes, there is a lighthouse at the top of the pass. Only there so the Swiss can say they have the tallest lighthouse in the world.

We found the route difficult to follow and ended up on the main road as it seemed to be the most direct and easiest route. However, this road took us up a very steep and long hill to Filims which was way-off our intended route. Panic set in a little bit and ended up at a very remote railway station at the bottom of a very, very steep hill. No way were we going back up it. There was a river running by but we were not sure it was the Rhine. Luckily another cyclist arrived to get on the next train and showed us a very well hidden cycle track on the other side of the river. By more luck than judgement we followed the famous Swiss Grand Canyon, where the Rhine forces its way through a narrow ravine.

This was really for mountain bikes but it got us to the outskirts of Chur and a good tarmac road into the city centre. Stayed at a backpackers hostel (JBN). This was perfect for us, more so since we found a good restaurant nearby and had an excellent pizza.

When have major issues about the route signposting after yesterday’s farce. Interesting group discussions - you should NEVER NEVER say - ‘This is the way to go’ -unless you have positive, undeniable proof. Always keep an open mind and do listen as to why this other person thinks he is right and you are not. Vice-versa, the person who adamant should pause and ask themselves - why is this person doubtful? We conclude today that we will rigidly follow the signs.

As it was, the route today was fairly obvious as it is on top of very large flood dykes. The very wide path disappears into the distance and you can just seen a gentle curve. When you get there it’s another long straight with a gentle curve . The views behind are superb (mountains) The view in front is of a backside. We ride in line as there is a very strong head wind so some of us take turns in the lead. I always take a couple of days to get ‘in the groove’, something to do with my blood/sugar levels and fatigue overcomes me. I call time-out for a break nearly every hour. I need to stop and have a drink and something to eat fairly often.

Not the most exciting set of photographs but it does reflect the sort of day it was, long, long dykes overlooking a wide shallow river. We did run parallel with Liechtenstein. It wasn’t until we turned left at Lake Constance that things looked up. Firstly, the weather became sunny and the view across this huge lake were brilliant. Spent the night in a very nice hotel on the water front. Its a very nice evening and we all eat at a pizza place (again) in a very old building. The views over the lake are superb.

Followed the shores of Constance then the German side of the Rhine. This was a good ride today. The paths were obvious and in superb condition. There must have been thousands of people out on their bikes which added to the occasion. Stopped midday at the medieval town of Stein am Rhein.

Just outside Schaffhausen we joined in with a big big rally. All the roads were traffic free and at the end we all got free drinks and goodies. The day was special. When we arrived at the Rhine falls, they were packed with tourists. We eventually found the Youth Hostel which was a ‘castle’ within the grounds. Come the evening all the tourist’s had gone and we had the place to ourselves. The falls were spectacular. The hostel did meals and we had a nice time chatting to the cook and drink the beer fridge dry.

The castle is where we stayed overnight. Made it so much better as we had the paths and viewpoints to ourselves after the blasted nuisance tourist (what are they like?) had gone home.

Rhenfelden - nice town and a great hostel - Rosa's. What a nice day. Easy riding along the river edge and one of the best place we stayed at all week - Rosa was a very upmarket backpackers hostel lovely place and a very hard working Rosa looked after us very well. We finished off our last day in Switzerland with a very nice meal in a restaurant overlooking the river - a pizza, of course - its the national food of Switrzerland

Well it starts as soon as we leave the Rosa’s, are we on the right road? We think we are, although it appears to be a cycle path down a main road, not ideal. Today we went through Strasbourg. Which was not great at all as the path was being re-layed and again no diversion signs for the cyclist. Right in the centre of the city we managed to pick up a cycle map which got us out of town. One of our group went charging off ahead and we spent a couple of hours looking for him. As we approached Basel again hit road works and diversions. It was easier in the end to all pile onto a tram and get a short ride into the city. Four bikes with kit on one tram caused problems for us but no one else seemed to be to bothered. In Basel it was hot, hot, hot, Had a quick bite to eat and we were on our way again. Hadn’t gone 1 km when we lost the route.