Day 15 - Burnt Porridge Bay / Croabh Haven / Kilmartin / Crinan Canal / Tarbert / Ferry to Lochranza

Our route south was with the Oban/Lochgilphead commuter traffic which, as you can imagine, posed no great threat. The trouble with wild camping is the lack of facilities, especially hot water for a good wash. However, as luck would have it, a short distance down the road was Craobh Haven. This modern marina is built around a collection of time-share villas, resembling an old fishing village in a strange architectural blend. I knew there were showers available in the marina and prepared to blag my way in. We both enjoyed good hot showers without anyone bothering us, all for just 50p. We finished our visit with hot chocolate and cake in the café before heading south on the A816. Despite it being a 'long-drag', the hills and traffic were manageable.

Its the Crinan for me!

We made time for a detour to go along the Crinan Canal, a very pleasant experience.Quiet and picturesque, we joined the canal a few miles from Crinan (sea-end) and after watching 'ViC32' going throgh to locks will supping tea, we scooted off at a fair speed along the towpath. At the Lochgilphead ‘The Vital Spark’ was lying very neglected looking at the bottom lock. Chris was bemused by my excitment over this rusty wreck, but I tried to convince him it was as good as a national monument, dear to every Scot who grew up watching it on TV in the early '60s.

From Lochgilphead the road follows the shores of Loch Fyne, remaining level as it hugs the water’s edge until Tarbert. The port of Tarbert, tucked in a snug dip in the hills, was more interesting than expected despite its frayed edges. Once a prosperous fishing port, its grandeur was now distinctly faded

Still no sign of Paul McCartney

Curious about what lay around the next corner, we kept going and ended up at Kennacraig ferry terminal. Knackered, we searched for a place to wild camp, but nothing suitable appeared. With slight dread, we tackled the Mull of Kintyre Mountains again, this time heading to Claonaig.

He who calls the ferry, pays!

The road was just as horrible the second time. Despite slipping into the woods occasionaly for a suitable camping place, all we found was a hosts of midges lying in ambush. To add to our woes, it started to rain quite heavily. The next place to aim for was the ferry 'bus shelter' at Claonaig and spend the night there.
We thought that the ferry would not be running this late into a Saturday evening. It was with absolute amazement that after on cresting a hill, that the ferry was still running, a lone car being loaded on it was the big clue. No sooner had we looked at each other and smiled, when at once the ramp went up and the ferry moved off. Chris had the foresight to wave and shout at the ferry – a wave of desperation if there ever was one, much to our amazement the ferry reversed back and dropped its ramp. This was our big break and very soon Chris was hugging the big ferryman, as for the second time it made its way for the last run of the day. This was our last ferry using our rover ticket and CalMac Ferries had been simply brilliant throughout our trip.

Our last night

We arrival at Lochranza in heavy rain. Tiredness did not help our mood. The first stop was the Youth Hostel and after fighting our way through a full car park to the reception desk we had the horror of being told that it was not just the car park that was 'full'.
So off we went in a wasted tour of the local B&Bs and ended up at the entrance the Lochranza campsite. The site looked very uninviting.
It took no further persuading when Chris suggested we try the Lochranza Hotel. So that’s where we ended up, with the best room in the house, a balcony overlooking the bay and the castle. It had been a long tiring day and after a good meal in the busy bar we happily retired.