The route from Whitehaven to Newcastle followed the Sustrans coast to coast cycle route. We found it well signposted and especially admired the varied accommodation we used on the journey. Our ride back was with the Reivers cycleway, follows roughly Hadrian's Wall, again a good route , if at times quite bleak and hard-going.
The Start
What’s that then? The Coast2Coast route is a popular, hilly, scenic, hilly, long distance, hilly, cycle ride. Do I need to mention that its also a little bit hilly? It crosses two mountain ranges (well, that might be an exaggeration)- the Lake District mountain range and the The Pennines Mountain Ranges. So unless you have previously ridden in the Alp section of the Tour de France, this is going to take you more than a day to complete. That's there and back by the way. Of course, if you want a challenge you could try and beat the record of a little over ten hours. Good luck!
It needs to be mentioned this is a popular 'club ride' and as you might expect 'speed nutters' have tried to beat the current record of coast to coast in 4 hours and 1 min. A very large number of 'bike tour' companies have elbowed their way - the choice is yours but if I can manage it after an evenings study and accommodation booking anyone can.
Watching the weather is also advisable, particularly as it is changeable in this part of the world (not to mention typically cold). Do not be fooled by the weather on the coast. The wind can be biting across the tops – even in summer – so shorts and a t-shirt might be foolhardy or wishful thinking.
Don’t let this 'wimpish weather warning' put you off though, as 'The Coast To Coast' is an ideal route for the cycle tourists. You get to observe some of Britain’s finest countryside and industrial heritage, whilst getting fit and enjoying it's surprisingly remoteness.
I found this to be one of the best signposted and organised Cycle routes in Britain - by far - and no exaggeration.
Credit for accolade must also go to the book ‘Coast to Coast Cycle Routes’ by Mark Porter with John Grimshaw.
One of the things that makes this journey such a joy was the brilliant accommodation, some of it quirky but always hospitable and good value.
From Whitehaven to Newcastle (should have been Tynemouth, but we cut a little corner off by heading west again at the Metro centre) it is a 136 miles. We followed Reivers route back through Carlisle and down the coast.
Sunday 20th Sept 09 - Mid- afternoon arrived at The Chase Hotel, Whitehaven. This hotel is right on the Coast to Coast cycle route and is in a quiet area of the town. I had booked this place for the first and last night of our ride, consequently there were no problems in leaving my car in their car park. We had a meal at The Bransty Arch, a Weatherspoons pub down in the town. This was a converted garage and the whole place was just buzzing and had a great atmosphere.
Monday 21st Sept – Whitehaven to Greystoke– 47 miles After the compulsory full English breakfast Chris and I headed off on our journey. The first part took us through the housing estates of Whitehaven and we mixed with what seemed like most of the population taking their kids to school. Whitehaven not being that big we were soon on the disused railway line which was tarmac’d and well sign posted. Now the only people we were meeting were the mid-morning dog walkers. Once you get out of Whitehaven it’s clear why the route is so popular, the back lanes of the Lake District are brilliant for cycling and you’ll see hardly any cars until you reach Keswick, right on Lake Derwent. Our aim for the day was Greystoke which was 50 miles away so it was going to be a good days bike ride. Luckily the weather was overcast which made the ride quite pleasant. There are several cycle routes using the same route here so just be vigilant. The route being flat we were soon through the town off Egermont and St Bees and into the open countryside of Cleaton Moor. We were now following minor roads which were very quiet of traffic. We seemed to be skirting the main mountains of the Lake District and there was good views despite the dull weather of Loweswater and Crummock Water. The afternoon climb was Whinlatter Pass which had its own cycle path through the trees but as the roads were quiet we stuck to the good old tarmac roads which give superb views over Baithwaite and Derwent Water.
By the time we got the Keswick the rain came and amazingly started and stopped while we were at a bus shelter. In Keswick we again went on a disused railway line which followed the river. Once you’ve left Keswick you ride through some nice woodland on a board walk through the trees which criss-crosses a fast flowing river. The wetness on them made for some careful cycling. This was a very scenic section and we criss-crossed the river on some ornate cast iron bridges. Our next stop was to be Penrith and when we got to the village of Threkeld we were back on roads.
We were back into agriculture country and following narrow roads on the hillside looking down on the A66. The roads we were on must have been the mains roads in the past which must have been a nightmare for travellers. Our arrival at Greystokes was a real treat a great place to stay, set out for the touring cyclist it was one of the best equipped places ever. We had a meal at the local pub which was busy and judging by the quality of their food you could see why.
Whithaven - Cleaton Moor - Rowrah - Kirkland - Felldyke - Waterend - Loweswater - Thackwade - Low Lorton - Whinlatter Forest - Braithwaite - KESWICK -Briery - Threlkeld - Trourtbeck - Matterdale - Hutton John - Greystoke
Tuesday 22nd September – Cycle day two Greystoke to Nenthead 42 miles At Penrith we had a massive climb out of the town. Hills don’t seem so bad when there are bendy bits in the road as you can’t see the top but this hill was straight up for about a mile. Nice views at the summit though but no sooner are we there, then its over the other side and this time it’s a proper downhill with twists and bends. You then leave the Lake District and descend into the green Eden Valley before the town of Penrith. Out of Penrith the Pennines beacon and its a gruelling climb up and over the Hartside Pass (1903ft) You’re rewarded with a fast, long decent to Nenthead. Overnight stop at Nentheads (Cherry Tree Cottage - Helen Sherlock) superb welcome whole house to ourselves and Helen told us us about getting stuck in the snow for 3 days in a car before a helicopter found her (this in the 1960’s)
Greystoke - Newton Reigry - PENRITH - Langwatby - Little Salked -Haresceugh Fell - (Hartside Heights) - Leadgate - ALSTON - Garrigill - Nenthead
Wednesday 23rd September – Cycle day three Nenthead to Corbridge 55 miles Steep climb out of here taking you through the remote North Pennines through the Village of Allenheads and the favourite cyclist stop at the Allenheads Inn. From there there is only two more climbs to do until you reach the town of Consett where the route divides into two, either Sunderland or Tynemouth. Strong worded warnings about this in the book and we still very nearly missed our junction to Sunderland.
Great ride from Consett into Newcastle along a disused railway line. Had stunning views over the valleys as we crossed them on railway viaducts.
A midday meal at the Skiff Inn (Metero Centre) and we follow the Tyne all the way to Hexham. This was a very long ride today. The B&B was very much up to the high standard of this trip. I could see the concern on the women's face about our knackered condition.
Nenthead - Allenshead - Rookhope - Stone - Waskerley - Castleside - CONSETT - Blaydon - RIVER TYNE TRAIL - Brooomley - COREBRIDGE
Thursday 24th September – Cycle day four – 54 miles – Corebridge to Burgh By Sands 52 miles Westward through Haltwhistle, Gilsland and Brampton before our overnight stop at Burgh by Sands.
We are very much now heading back west. We follow the route which runs parallel with Hadrian’s Wall but you actually see very little of it. The drop into Vindolanda (main Roman fort, I belive) empahsised why its bleakness and remotness showed even today, why the Romans considered this to be the edge of the civilised world. The roads is very straight and long (there’s a surprise) and with steep drops and hills in and out of the valleys. We meal at Haltwhistle and carry on to Carlisle. There we hit major problems as the cycle path no longer exists. Carlisle flooded last year and there was extensive work going to widened and deepen the river and the cycle tow path simply did not exist. We ring our next B&B and she makes an offer to come a collect us. We chose to carry on and end up a magnificent huge house and very nicely treated by all. The view from the farmhouse was flat and pretty and in total contrast to what we had come through that day.
Corebridge - HEXHAM - Bridge End - High Warden - HALTWHISTLE - Gilsland - Vindolanda - Brampton - Fenton - CARLISLE - Burgh By Sands
Friday 25th September – Cycle day five – 65 miles – Burgh by Sands to Whitehaven I came to consider this a very strange, forgotten, quiet corner of Britain. Why would anyone want to live in Silloth, for example, with its faded, well weather beaten, Victorian facade.
Not the most direct route to Whitehaven but following the Solway Firth through Silloth, Maryport and Workington. Staying again at The Chase (same place we had left the car). My day ended abrupty at Maryport - I’ve got diarrhoea! This is no joke, without going into great detail, I abandoned Chris and jumped on the train back to Whitehaven. The fare was only £2 but to be able to sit on a proper toilet - it was bliss! Looking through a gap in the frosted glaas of the train toilet I did recognise that this was pobably a lovely coastline. The railway line itself twisted and turned with not much room between the cliffs and the sea.
Burgh By Sands - Bowness on Solway - Silloth - Maryport - Workington -Whitehaven
